Silver has been used in jewelry since about 3000 B.C. in ancient Egypt. Pure silver is too soft to be used in jewelry. Sterling Silver is 92.5% pure, and is usually marked "Sterling" or ".925". Copper is the most common alloy for silver. Silver is less expensive the gold or platinum, but is not commonly used for mounting gems, except for some semi-precious gems. In recent years, Sterling silver has become more popular in fashion jewelry such as earrings, necklaces, bracelets, etc.
PLATINUM
Beneath its subtle beauty and understated elegance lie the properties which make platinum truly unique.
Platinum is strong
It is the heaviest of the precious metals, weighing almost twice as much as karat gold. Its strength ideally secures diamonds and other precious gems. Even after many years, platinum will not wear away or wear down.
Platinum is pure
In America, platinum jewelry contains either 90% or 95% pure platinum. By comparison, 18K gold is 75% pure and 14 karat is 57% pure gold. Only platinum will never tarnish or lose its rich white luster. Because platinum is so pure, it is hypoallergenic.
Platinum is rare
Ten tons of ore must be mined to produce a single ounce of platinum. It takes five months to process platinum ore into pure platinum. Only after this time can skilled hands work their creativity and craftsmanship, transforming platinum into pieces of wearable art.
Know your karats*
Look for the karat mark, which will tell you that the piece is real gold and the percentage of pure gold it contains. Pure gold, or 24K, is rarely used because it is soft and easily damaged. Instead gold is alloyed with other metals, such as copper, silver, nickel and zinc, to give it strength and durability. Different proportions of these alloys also give gold its rose, green, or white coloration. 18K gold is 75% gold; 14K is 58.5%; and 10K is 41.6%. The higher the karatage, the richer the color will be--and the more costly. In the U.S. jewelry must be at least 10K to be legally sold as real gold. (In Canada and Mexico, the minimum legal standard of karatage is 9K and 8K respectively.) Imported gold jewelry may be stamped with different numbers. For example, the European markings for 14 karat gold jewelry is 585; for 18K is 750.
Look for the trademark
On karat-marked jewelry sold in the U.S., always look for the manufacturer's trademark. By U.S. law it must be there. When there's a hallmark, it means the manufacturer stands behind the accuracy of the karat mark. You may also find the country of origin marked.
Evaluating price
In addition to karat weight, the price of gold jewelry is determined by several factors: total weight; design and construction; and ornamental detailing, such as engraving or Florentine finish. Although nearly all gold jewelry today is made with the help of special machines, some handwork is always involved. The more there is, the higher the price. The good news is that through modern manufacturing technology, large, lightweight, and exciting pieces can be surprisingly affordable.
* Don't be confused with "carats," the weight measure used for diamonds and other gems.
