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The Better
Cut a Diamond, the More Brilliant
The way a diamond is cut may affect its value because a
stone that is not properly proportioned lacks the brilliance of a well cut
stone. A well cut or faceted diamond, regardless of its shape,
scintillates with fire and light -- offering the greatest brilliance and
value. While nature determines a diamond's clarity, carat weight and
color, the hand of a master craftsman is necessary to release its fire,
sparkle and beauty. If the diamond is cut with just the right proportions
and at certain precise angles, the stone’s ability to reflect and refract
light will be maximized; the diamond will sparkle at greatest capacity.
When a round diamond is cut to Ideal proportions, light will bounce freely
within the diamond and reflect back out of the crown without escaping
through the opposite side or the bottom of the stone. Diamonds that are
cut too deep or too shallow lose light that spills through the side or
bottom. As a result, poorly cut stones will be less brilliant and
beautiful -- and certainly less valuable -- than well cut diamonds higher
on the Diamond Quality Chart. The diamond cutter will determine the
stone’s brilliance and scintillation. Fancies are more subjective than
rounds when it comes to proportions. Whereas there are sets of rules for
round proportions, the same does not apply to fancies. The important
factor is that the facets should be well aligned.
| Terminology |
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| Ideal Cut |
A diamond cut to optimal proportions, with optimal polish and
symmetry, with the most weight loss to produce maximum luster,
brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation. Diamonds cut to this
standard are the most valuable, with only 5% of the round brilliant
diamonds on the market cut to this standard. Considered investment
Diamond Stones. |
| Well-Cut or Very Good |
Diamonds that have very good optical beauty that falls just
outside of the parameters of Ideal Cut diamond. These diamonds are
priced less than Ideal cuts, but are still considered investment
Diamond Stones, with only 10% of the round brilliant diamonds on the
market cut to this standard. |
| Deep Cut or Good |
This diamond will appear smaller than it weighs because its
weight is retained in the depth. It is cut with a deep pavilion
(bottom of the diamond) that does not reflect light back through the
crown (top of the diamond). Light leaks out the pavilion
producing a dark appearing diamond that lacks sparkles. |
| Shallow Cut or Fair |
Diamonds that are cut with shallow pavilions that do not reflect
light back through their crown. The light leaks out from the
pavilion, producing a watery spot appearance that is not beautiful.
This will cause unsightly reflections in the crown area. |
| Bow-Tic or Poor |
Effect dark area in the center of some diamonds. A large dark
shaded area in the center of a diamond detracts from beauty and
lowers the value. |
| Cut |
Depth Percentage |
Table Percentage |
| Ideal |
60-62.7% |
53-57% |
| Very Good |
59-62.9% |
53-61% |
| Good |
58-63% |
53-63% |
| Fair |
64-67% or 56-58% |
63-65% |
| Poor |
Over 67% or less than 56% |
over 65% |
The girdle and culet is also other important part of the
cut. The girdle rating indicates both the thickness of the girdle and
whether it is polished or faceted. These two criteria affect the value and
durability of a diamond. Girdle thickness ranges from extremely thin to
extremely thick -- both extremes tend to lower a diamond's value. A medium
rating is desired for the girdle, although diamond shapes with more than
one point (i.e. pear or marquise) will often have a thick to very thick
girdle in the area of the points. The culet is the tiny facet at the
bottom of the diamond that looks like a point. The desired culet is small
to very small, so that it is not visible through the top of the stone. A
larger culet is often visible through the top and reduces brilliance at
the center of the stone.
A top finish is important, because it directly affects
the look of the diamond. It is the quality of the finish that unlocks the
hidden beauty in the diamond. Two factors, polish and symmetry, indicate
the finish of a diamond. These factors show the care and craftsmanship
that went into the finishing of the stone.
Polish: The final finish must be perfectly void
of any streaks or marks left over by the manufacturing process. A
diamond's polish is a good indication of the care taken by the diamond
cutter. The better the polish, the brighter and more lustrous the stone.
Polishes rated excellent, very good, good, fair or poor.
Symmetry: Symmetry describes several factors of a
diamond including how the facet edges align with one another, depending on
the diamond facets of either side match, and whether the facets of the top
portion of the diamond are aligned with corresponding facets in the bottom
portion. A diamond’s facet needs to be of equal size and perfectly
opposite its counterpart on the crown and pavilion. Symmetry should be
graded as excellent, very good or good; if it is fair or poor, your
diamond has been poorly cut and its value and beauty will be less.
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